Sunday, 1 December 2013

For Sale: Warm Winter Jackets, Delivery Included!

Rab. Berber Pile, fully reversible jacket. 

Size Medium Men/Unisex.
outer shell: Black Pertex with Charcoal Grey Stretch Cordura/Taslan shoulders sleeve patches and cuffs.
inner: Charcoal Grey Berber pile.
Fully wind proof, Very Warm! and unused condition.
Price: £55.00 including next day DPD Courier delivery, Yes that's right delivery included ;-) (Mainland UK only!)

contact: knotty dot bear at gmail dot com (you know what to do with the dot & at ;-)




Lowe Alpine, Aleutian, AL 375 double pile fleece pullover.
Thank you.
Size Mens, Medium/Unisex.
Material: Aleutian, AL 375 double pile fleece in Taupe.
new condition! only worn on a couple of occasions!
Price: £50.00 including next day DPD Courier delivery, Yes that's right delivery included ;-) (Mainland UK only!)

contact: knotty dot bear at gmail dot com (you know what to do with the dot & at ;-)



Pictures are also here in my Picasa web for sale album.

Thank you for looking,
Take care,
Barry ;-)

Sunday, 21 July 2013

Rope for Sale via my Etsy Store.

Rope For Sale!
Now Available Via my Etsy Store!
See Below for Details.
How Do All ;-)

Below is a list of rope I have that I am looking to give a new home to. The reason for selling is that I need to make space, and I no longer have a need for so much stock.

Most of this rope is brand new and is full 220m coils which have not been opened!
I have noted below any coils that I have used rope from and exactly how much I used, I keep notes of pretty much every thing ;-)

The prices below are the same price or less than the original trade prices I paid, including the VAT. I have reduced the prices for any coils I have used cord off of, taking the amount into account.

These items will be sent via courier unless otherwise stated in the text!

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions:
knotty (dot) bear (at) gmail (dot) com

Click on an item to go to the relevant page of my shop.

Liros Ropes
Below is all the Liros ropes I have, these are pretty expensive ropes due to the nature of the material and intended end use, I have included links to the Liros site and direct links to the product pages so you can check the specs.

8mm £140.00  NOW £100.00 + 7.95 courier delivery

 £278.00. NOW £200.00 + 7.95 courier delivery,  I have used 10 meters from this spool10mm

Thank you for looking.

Take care,
Barry ;-)

Wednesday, 10 July 2013

Dice Bags & Shaker Cups

How Do All ;-)
Complimentary Colours.

Back in 2004 on an ice climbing trip to Ouray Colorado I happened into Ouray Toys, as any grown man would do! and found a game called Pocket Farkel (also known as 10'000 among other names) and marketed by Legendary Games inc. 
This came in a little plastic box printed with the Ouray Toys logo and not only became a great souvenir of a great trip, but would become my most favorite game ever and has accompanied me on many climbing and non climbing trips over the years.

I was trying to think of a unique and personal birthday gift for my girlfriend, and as it just so happened she seemed to like Farkel too, so I decided to make her a Ply-Split Braided dice shaker cup and a fully reversible dice bag, along with a set of Chessex Vortex Dice in a nice swirly Teal colour to match the bag, also a set of instructions and some tiny 7mm dice, just for fun.

This Dice Shaker cup is based upon one that I made whilst on holiday in Kettwig Germany last year. This one is made from my own hand made, 4 strand paper cords, made with my cord making machines. the technique used to braid the cup is Ply-Split Braiding, and is Single Course Oblique Twining, SCOT for short.
the pattern is arranged to resemble converging train tracks. also Pictured with the Teal, Chessex Vortex dice.

The bottom of the dice cup. 

The dice bag, reversed.

The dice bag, right side out.

Hidden Treasures! 

This is the afore mentioned dice shaker cup which I made whilst on holiday in Kettwig, made from left over scraps of my hand made paper cords from another project. Ply-Split Braided in SCOT. pictured with multi-coloured dice.

The bottom of the dice cup.

The Prototype dice bag I made first to get the dimensions right, this one came out a little small but will do for me ;-) made from recycled fabric from old combat pants.

A Bag O' Joy!

Take care,
Barry ;-)

Saturday, 22 June 2013


How Do All ;-)

I managed to get hold of quite a nice Challenge Fujin SL at the end of January, the bike was third hand and had a few issues, but the frame was in pretty much mint condition, which was the most important thing for me as everything else would be Barryfied in one way or another ;-)

Below is a picture of the bike as I bought it.
This is a 2006 model Fujin SL1 with Carbon fork and Titanium, fixed tiller steerer. 
The few problems with the bike were minor in my opinion and very easy to fix, the main one being the seat which had a kink in the supporting structure, possibly caused by someone sitting on the back of the seat when getting in or out of the cockpit as the bike is low and with the fixed tiller this is an easy thing to end up doing. 
You can see the damaged area and the temporary fix that someone had tried to do by bolting a piece of flimsy alloy angle to the back of the seat frame which was deformed to the shape of the kink :-/ 
I got rid of the offending piece of alloy and straightened the seat frame back into shape, the seat now being straight and not needing any extra help to keep it that way. I also decided not to paint or try to hide the battle scar as matching the paint is nigh on impossible.  

The new seat saver, Flip Up tiller arrangement!
The next item on my to do list was the fixed tiller steering arrangement, and probable cause of the seat damage. 
I cut the Titanium tiller down, removing the ugly bend and screw headset adjuster, I added a Nylatron plug to the base of the Titanium tube, profiled the end and fitted it to my spare flip up headset from my Highracer.

I added a Carbon Top cap and placed small polyethylene disks to either side of the pivot point on the flip up headset, this creates friction, holding the tiller where you leave it, and also protects the parts from abrasion during use.

Next up, I ditched the standard brake levers and also the rear brake completely, a rear brake on some recumbents can be dangerous, also not needed on a race bike, and is also a personal preference.
I the set about making a new underslung brake lever for the front brake which as well as being more aerodynamic than reindeer antlers, can be operated by either hand, which when riding to the track on the road is handy when indicating and trying to brake at the same time.
The brake lever consists of an aluminum lever mounted into a composite Tufnol block, and is attached to the tiller in a rather salty dog style with a lashing, I had to get some rope work on the bike somewhere ;-)
The Brake lever also has an enlarged thumb pad to save the lever biting into the thumb when braking hard, this was sometimes a problem on my high racer with prolonged use.

Detail of the controls.
Getting rid of the brake levers also means the modified Sram grip shifters can be brought closer together, again more aero. I made a computer mount from a piece of heat moulded plastic which plugs into the end of the tiller stem. 

Next, the drive chain.
I started by shortening the 165mm cranks to 140mm, which is my preferred length, you can see more info about crank shortening in an earlier post here: Short & Cranky

The original Shimano 105 chainset was a  triple ring set, but as the inner ring was unnecessary I
removed it making this into a double chainset, I also plugged the screw posts for the small ring with little plastic caps, I may cut the posts off in the future.

The power and return idlers had a few issues also.
The power idler was mounted on a frame post which came out so far that the chain line was pushed beyond the outer edge of the smallest ring on the cassette, so I cut the post down, shortened the fixing bolt and also reshaped the stainless chain keeper to better do its job of stopping the chain leaving the idler and chewing on the seat mounting post.

I mounted the chain keeper for the bottom return side idler the opposite way around to how it came, and also reshaped this to work properly as originally its profile was so wide that it allowed the chain to leave the idler, not a problem now!
The last issue in this area was the chain tube retaining rod, originally silver soldered to the power idler chain keeper, this came broken and was crudely zip tied to hold it in place. I got rid of the retaining rod and instead mounted the chain tube to the return idler with a single nylon zip tie, which places the tube in the correct alignment for the chain coming from the power idler. 

The upper return idler also had a little issue  with the chain keeper / cage, the alignment tab on top of this had been slightly deformed (crash damage maybe from the look of it) making the parts able to swivel, which must have been the cause of the scratching on the fork also, this has now been straightened, solidly fixed and runs smoothly.

There was no head or neck rest on the seat, so I made a frame from 6mm od SS tubing fixed by two small nylon P clips and stainless hardware, the tubing mounts through two holes drilled in the seat frame, and can also be adjusted up or down quite easily. the pillow is made from 2 types of air mesh material and is held in place with two simple zip ties which makes for quick removal, sliding it on and off the tubular headrest frame.
I also made the seat pad from the same materials as the pillow and this is fixed to the seat using small areas of Velcro and also some beads of a kind of silicone sealant which stops the seat pad sliding on the seat making for a direct and very connected feel to the seat. more on this some other time maybe ;-)

I changed all the gear and brake cables, and changed the rear 11/23 cassette out to a 12/25 cassette which is much nicer to use in conjunction with the 140mm cranks, and also the larger 55t front ring.

Just for my own piece of mind, I dismantled both wheels and completely rebuilt them, and added new rim tape, tubes and Durano race tyres, and also cleaned and lubed all the bearings.
the next step was the long process of skinning the rear wheel with nylon fabric, this is bonded to the braking surface of the rim and then shrunk using shrinking nitrocellulose dope and other secret ingredients and coatings, more on this some other time maybe ;-) 

the next step is to build a mono blade for the front end, for which I have already built a new front wheel, this wheel will also be skinned in the same Jaffa Orange fabric, after that a carbon fiber seat is on the cards also when I get around to making the mould.

This and the very top picture is how the bike looks at the moment.

I really love this bike and it is so easy to handle, at under 10kg it is very light and pretty darn fast, I think its a keeper. I have spent quite a lot of time in the mornings riding at the track and around the borough and I can't get enough of it! The silver high racer has now been relegated to commuter work bike ;-/

My first and only race outing on the bike so far this year, where we both performed better than expected, taking the overall win for the unfaired class on the day. I was very happy with that considering I was still recovering from an operation several weeks prior.
Photos taken at Hillingdon cycle track by Jonathan W

Take care,
Barry ;-)

Tuesday, 11 June 2013

PSD Outside, Footstop Review.

How Do All ;-)

Too long ago!!! I received a pre-production "Outside" footstop from my Friend Tim, at PSD                                 
Sorry for the delay in reviewing this Tim!

The Outside footstop in place on my Carbon Siva Deck.
(NB. the screw post mounted in front of the footstop in these pictures is not part of the footstop! this is the mounting post for my Kick 2 Switch Footstop)

Designed by Tim at Pritchard Skate Designs in the UK and manufactured by RipTide Sports in the U.S., the OUT-Side Convex Footstop is made of a resilient 65d (105a) Urethane. Not only does the Urethane make the FootStop extra durable, it allows it to mold to the shape of your deck.

The material reminds me of a Maynard's Wine Gum, but tastes no where near as good ;-)   

Just for comparison, the Outside with my modified PSD FWD to Barrier footstop on top, 

The Outside is super light, will conform to the concave of your deck and is simple to fix using the existing truck mounting holes and slightly longer screws, takes but a few minutes to get one of these puppies on your deck, so no excuses for not having one!

You can adjust the footstop 20mm back and forth so you can dial in that sweet spot, sadly due to my Kick 2 Switch mounting post I was not able to positing it as far forward as I would have liked.

The idea of the Outside is that you can ride with you foot at any angle due to the wide radius of the face, this also makes riding both regular or goofy possible without having to move the footstop as you might have to do with a concave fixed footstop like the "Inside" this is also good if you share your board with a friend that is opposite footed to you.

I took the outside for a test ride on my Carbon Siva and headed off for a 17 mile / 27 km around Heathrow and the surrounding villages before heading off to work, Oh' the joy of only working afternoons ;-)

One of my favorite stops on the route is the Secret Garden (my name for it any way) at T5 Heathrow which this year is sporting a range of bright coloured wheelbarrows planted amongst the trees, looks like they are trying to take off!
Nice and out of the way of the main forecourt, with trees and raised beds to pump around I was able to spend some time pumping in circles and figure eights, both goofy and regular.

Formation Flying!

The outside has a nice grippy feel which locks your foot into place due to the deep moulded grooves in the face, this really helps to stop your foot migrating towards to edge of the deck and you need not worry anymore about foot wheel bite, which can be a nasty sudden stopping affair and a face full of pavement ;-)

A complete waste of good LDP space, the other T5 pump playground with water fountains, that's the first time I have seen them working, and though very nice to watch the show I would rather riding on a nice dry surface ;-)

Siva and Outside.

In conclusion: if you like to pump switch or want to try pumping switch, just like to move your foot around a lot whilst riding or like to share your deck with anyone else that might be goofy or regular then this could be the footstop for you! 
I personally prefer the feel of the concave face on the Barrier or FWD, now the new "Inside" as this gives a much larger contact area to me foot which I like. but even after 17 miles the outside caused me no pressure pain, like a small diameter busing can do, especially with sift shoes on.

as I have said before: You can't go wrong with one of these puppies on your board! 

Please also see my other foot stop reviews:
PSD Barrier Footstop Review
Kick 2 Switch Footstop Modifications

And Other LDP stuff:
LDP & Skate Stuff

Take care,

Barry  ;-)

Friday, 19 April 2013

Cast Net, For Sale!

How Do All ;-)

I have just added this Beautiful hand braided Cast Net to my Etsy Shop

This Beautiful Cast Net was a labor of love and over a year in the making 
The main body of the net is hand braided in 0.33mm, 19lb monofilament Nylon line.
The centre and bottom edge of the net are hand braided in 0.44mm, 32lb monofilament Nylon line.
There are over 29,000 knots in the finished net.
The actual spread diameter of the net is just over 3.65m (12ft)

The lead line is 6mm Polypropylene line, has 118 1oz lead weights on it, is 13m (43ft) in length and hand braided to the perimeter of the net.

The 24 brail lines are made from 0.70mm, 60lb monofilament Nylon line.

 The horn in the centre of the net is turned from Nylatron and has Stainless Steel brail separators mounted inside, the horn is attached to the net with #18 Bonded Nylon twine. 

 The hand line is 9mm hollow braided Polypropylene about 30ft long with a wrist loop spliced in one end, the other end is spliced to a swivel connected to the brail lines.

Well over a hundred man hours (too many more to even count) went into the making of the practical work of art, and the price I am putting on this net is in no way close to the actual value of such work of art, in fact it is a mile off! but I am at a point where I would rather see this item enjoyed, displayed and/or used by someone that can truly appreciate its real value.

I will also include any information on use, care and repair that I have.
The net is supplied in a Plastic snap lid bucket for ease of transport and storage.

Price: £500.00
P+P Via Royal Mail Special Delivery (insured) £30.00 UK mainland only.
Please contact me for overseas delivery quote.

This net can be purchased either via my Etsy Shop or you can buy directly from me if you do not want to set up an Etsy account, and I will invoice you via paypal.

Please contact me if you have any questions: knotty (dot) bear (at) gmail (dot) com

Please check out my Etsy Shop for more items.

Thank you for looking.
Take care,
Barry ;-)

Tuesday, 26 February 2013

More Gripfids

How Do All ;-)

I just finished covering a set of Gripfids for a customer in Switzerland.

The tools are 6mm, 8mm and 10mm diameter, suitable for up to 4mm, 6mm and 8mm cords respectively, 

 The tools have a solid Maple handle, covered with a beautiful Pineapple knot.
The smallest is a 35p x 30b, 5 Pass, Type 5 Pineapple knot, the next is a 36p x 32b, 4 Pass, Type 4 Pineapple knot, and the largest is a 45p x 40b, 5 Pass, Type 5 Pineapple knot.

A close up of the Pineapple knot handles.

I made some Pojama's (covers) for the Gripfids from odd ends of climbing rope with the core stripped out.
practical or not? who knows ;-)  

For more info about, and pictures of Gripfids see the link below:
And to see some of the items I have made using Gripfids, check out my Ply-Split Braiding page

Please contact me if you have any questions: knotty (dot) bear (at) gmail (dot) com

Please check out my Etsy Shop for more items.

Thank you for looking.
Take care,
Barry ;-)